A Journey into the Heart of the Mysterious Sundarbans
The Call of the Wild
For travelers, a long holiday is the perfect excuse to escape the monotony of daily life. And what could be a better destination than the Sundarbans—home to the majestic Bengal tiger, winding waterways, and an ecosystem teeming with life?
Seizing the opportunity, we set off for an adventure deep into this legendary mangrove forest. Our journey began with a bus ride from Dhaka to Rayenda, followed by a visit to the station office of the Sharankhola Range. Fortunately, our tour guide, Saiful Islam Shahin, had already taken care of most of the official procedures required for entry.
With all permissions secured, we boarded a spacious boat that could accommodate 50 passengers, though we were only a group of 18. Excitement buzzed in the air as we sailed towards Terabeka Outpost, our first stop. The scattered structures of the outpost seemed to reflect its intriguing name. After a brief photo session, we resumed our journey, basking in the cool, refreshing breeze of the Baleshwar River. As we drifted past Bogi Station, our boat turned into Supati Canal, where the real magic of the Sundarbans unfolded before our eyes.
Into the Heart of the Wild
As we cruised along the tranquil waters of the canal, our eyes feasted on the breathtaking scenery. The banks were lined with dense Sundari and Keora trees, their roots reaching out like twisted fingers into the muddy shores.
But the most striking sight was the resilience of the fishermen, braving the threat of tigers and crocodiles, their weathered faces reflecting years of struggle. The silver hilsa fish leapt wildly in their nets, as if making one final attempt at freedom. The harsh realities of life in the Sundarbans made us appreciate our own comforts in a way we never had before.
By midday, we entered the Kochikhali Wildlife Sanctuary, where nature greeted us with a spectacular display. A herd of spotted deer emerged from the trees, their delicate movements blending seamlessly with the golden sunlight filtering through the canopy. Some deer stood motionless under the trees, their sharp, cautious eyes scanning the surroundings. High above, white egrets and painted storks perched gracefully on the branches, turning the mangrove into a scene straight out of a nature documentary.
With each passing moment, our experience grew richer, reminding us why the Sundarbans is often called “Nature’s Last Untamed Frontier.”
A Dance with Danger at Dimer Char
By 3:30 PM, our boat reached Dimer Char, a secluded island at the edge of the Bay of Bengal. A few of our companions hesitated, fearing tigers lurking in the shadows and the drizzle that had begun due to an approaching cyclone. But adventure called, and most of us stepped onto the sandy shores.
A sudden gust of wind carried the salty scent of the sea, mixing with the earthy aroma of the mangroves. We wandered deeper into the thatch gardens, a perfect hideout for tigers. The thought sent a thrilling shiver down our spines, but we couldn’t resist capturing the moment in photographs.
To our left, the Bay of Bengal roared, its waves crashing against the island, while to our right, the dense forest stood silent and mysterious. As we moved towards Pakhi Char, the landscape took an eerie turn. Dead trees, their trunks twisted and bleached by time, stood like ancient fossils. The scene felt almost ghostly, yet the sight of hundreds of seagulls and egrets soaring above erased our fears, leaving us mesmerized.
As nightfall approached, the winds grew stronger, urging us to retreat. We hurried back to our boat, leaving behind footprints that the tides would soon erase.
Discovering the Untouched Sunshan Char
The next morning, we drifted through the Betmor River, the rising tide carrying us towards Shela River. Our boat finally docked at a nameless island, a place so untouched that even seasoned travelers had never set foot there.
Retired forest officer Abul Kalam Azad, who accompanied us, revealed that we were the first-ever tourists to land on this virgin island. The realization filled us with a rare sense of discovery. The silence of the place was surreal—so quiet that we could hear the falling of leaves.
The island was a natural masterpiece, dotted with Sundari, Keora, Bain, and Khalshi trees, their roots piercing the earth in search of air. The breathing roots, or pneumatophores, stood taller than usual, their unique structure capturing our attention. Playful deer darted across the land, adding to the wilderness of this hidden paradise.
Such a stunning place deserved a name. Upon Mr. Azad’s request, we christened it “Sunshan Char”—a tribute to its serene and untouched beauty.
Sunshan Char lies east of Kukilmoni Camp and north of Tiar Char. With proper attention from the authorities, it could become one of the most sought-after tourist destinations in the Sundarbans.
A Race Against Time—Cyclone Approaches
As we set off towards Kukilmoni Camp, we finally received mobile network coverage. That’s when we received the alarming news—Cyclone Tej was set to strike the Sundarbans at exactly 5 PM.
The irony was striking—while others were rushing to safety, we were still deep inside the forest, enjoying our journey. However, the looming danger was undeniable. Without delay, we ordered our boatman to turn around and head back towards Rayenda.
By the time the clock struck 5 PM, the storm’s first gusts had already begun sweeping across the forest, and we were still on the river, racing against time. The adventure we had so eagerly embraced was now a battle to return safely.
An Unfinished Adventure That Became a Legend
Renowned journalist and author Mark Twain once said:
“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So, throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”
Yet, this time, due to the storm and the safety concerns of our fellow travelers, we were forced to cut our adventure short—something De-Chhut had never done before. What was meant to be a long and fulfilling expedition turned into a thrilling yet incomplete journey, etched forever in our memories.
How to Visit the Sundarbans
Buses from Dhaka’s Sayedabad to Rayenda (Sharankhola, Bagerhat) run until 6:30 PM.
From Rayenda, boats and vessels can be rented for exploring the Sundarbans.
Accommodation, Food & Permits
Arrangements for accommodation, meals, and entry permits can be made in advance through Ruposhi Rayenda Hotel & Tourism, managed by Shahidul Islam Sohag.
Alternatively, a Google search will provide a list of Sundarbans-based tour operators.
Contact: +8801918193062
Essential Travel Tips
Forest department fees for boat entry and security personnel must be paid as per regulations.
Carry enough food and drinking water for the duration of your stay.
Always verify permits before setting out.
The Sundarbans is a place of mystery, danger, and unparalleled beauty. Whether you’re an adventure seeker or a nature lover, it will leave you spellbound. But always remember—nature is unpredictable, and only the prepared survive!
